A Casual Backpacker’s Guide to the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail

And why you should hike the trail in the Fall

Day 1: China Beach Trailhead to Bear Beach

On October 4-6th my partner and I embarked on a 3-day backpacking trip, hiking 30 km of the 47 km Juca de Fuca Marine Trail. We hiked from the China Beach trailhead west to Sombrio Beach, covering the most challenging section of the hike. We got amazing weather and had no trouble finding a place to camp. It is a very busy trail during the summer months, and as certain campsites can get cut off by the tide, others can get very full. In the fall, especially mid-week, there are fewer campers and hikers on the trails, making it easier to find campsites. Of course, we were not the only ones on the trail, so don’t worry about being alone in the backcountry.

What is the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail?

Juan de Fuca Provincial Park sits on the southwestern corner of Vancouver Island, British Columbia. The Marine Trail is the park’s most significant feature, covering 47 km of coastal views. Juan de Fuca is known as being a less intensive trail than the 80 km West Coast Trail, but covers similar terrain, with more elevation gain overall. You are hiking along the bluffs on the edge of the water and coming down to certain beaches. Although it is not as elevation heavy as hiking in the Rocky Mountains, the consistent ups and downs of the terrain leave little room for flat, resting sections.

One interesting feature of the Juan de Fuca trail was the kilometre markers. There is a post with a kilometre marking for every kilometre you hike, starting at 0 km from the trailhead at the China Beach parking lot and continuing up to 47 at the Botanical Beach parking lot. This allowed us to keep track of our pace and time ourselves against the tide.

Very Important: Keep a record of the tide table with you while hiking. Certain beaches get cut off at high tide and there is often no alternative route.

I used the detailed guide by Happiest Outdoors which you can find here to help us along the way.

Before the Trip

We stayed at Gordon’s Beach Farm Stay near Sooke the night before, a lovely acreage with views of the ocean right from the windows. The trailhead at China beach was around a 30-45 minute drive from here. My aunt and uncle were kind enough to provide us with transportation to and from the trail, but there are also shuttles you can book from Victoria.

Juan de Fuca Trailhead to Mystic Beach

We got on the trail about 10:15 am and made it to Mystic Beach at 11. The trail is relatively easy through the forest here, with no significant elevation difference until you reach the descent to the beach. Mystic Beach marks the 2 km point. I had done this trail as a day hike back in 2018, so it was fun to return. The beach was very misty, which made for some beautiful pictures, but no expansive view of the ocean. We took a break here and walked without packs to the waterfall to the east of the trail. We started hiking again around 11:30 to do the 7 km remainder to Bear Beach.

Mystic Beach to Bear Beach

The hike to Bear Beach took us around 4.5 hours including our break for lunch and other snack breaks. This section of the trail is moderate, with some elevation gain and loss over the bluffs, but only totalling around 270 metres. There is a series of three ladders coming down the cliff to Bear Beach, followed by newly constructed stairs. Take your time on the ladders and follow the guidelines posted. One of the other groups brought a dog with them, and told us they had to take turns bringing her down the ladders. Luckily she was only about 7 lbs, but for a bigger dog this obstacle may cause issues.

We arrived at Bear Beach East camp at 4 pm, unfortunately high tide. There is a tidal obstacle between Bear Beach East Camp (at Rosemund Creek) and Central Camp (at Clinch Creek), making the route impassible. We camped here for the night, as the tide would not receed far enough for us to pass until after sunset.

Camping at East Bear Beach

Bear Beach East Camp was a nice campsite where we were joined by two other groups (totalling 7 campers including us). The campsite was surprisingly small, with the tent pads, pit toilets and bear cache all within the same area. I am more used to backcountry sites with more space, but between the beach and the cliffs there isn’t much room to expand. I believe this site had about 7 wooden tent pads.

We ate on the beach, trying to ensure we kept any food smells away from the tents. We were provided with entertainment during dinner as a group of seals hung out in the water, not far from the beach watching us. It was a pretty unique experience.

The one draw back about hiking late in the season is the shorter daylight hours. The sun set just before 7, making it dark by 8 pm. On the other hand, we were able to fall asleep very early that night and get lots of rest before what would be the most difficult stretch of the trail for us.

Check out my next post: Juan de Fuca Marine Trail Day 2: Bear Beach to Chin Beach for more information about the most challenging day of our trip!