Although I was born and raised in Calgary, Vancouver Island has always had a special place in my heart. I’ve always had family living on the island and grew up with frequent visits to the Nanaimo-Parksville-Qualicum area to see my grandmother. More recently, I’ve been travelling to Victoria to visit my aunt and uncle.
There is so much on the island I still have yet to see, but as someone who goes back almost every year, I feel that I have some good recommendations, especially for first-time visitors. I’ve broken my guide into sections, so it’s easier to plan your trip depending on which part of the island you plan to visit. There is also a map at the end. The driving time from place to place without stops is included in parentheses.
Sidney to Victoria (30 minutes)
Many visitors to Vancouver Island start (or even stay) in the Saanich/Victoria area. Whether you’re travelling by ferry or by airplane, you’ll arrive on the north end of the Saanich peninsula and will need to drive south to BC’s capital city.
If you choose to stay in Sidney, or just explore the town for an afternoon, you should walk around Beacon and Bevan Avenues and down the pier. Hunt for sea glass at Glass Beach, or grab a sweet treat from the Sidney Bakery. History buffs and Lego lovers alike will enjoy visiting the Sidney Museum (the Lego exhibition occurs annually from December to March). I also recommend driving out to Moses Point, on the northwest corner of the Saanich peninsula.
As you make your way south towards Victoria, consider making a detour for a hike or a beach visit in Coles Bay Regional Park or Gowlland Tod Provincial Park. I particularly enjoyed by hike to Jocelyn Hill in Gowlland Tod, with its stunning views of the Finlayson Arm and cute rope swing along the way. If you’re less inclined to hike, stop in Brentwood Bay or spend an afternoon at Butchart Gardens.
If you’d prefer to explore the east side of the Saanich peninsula, add Cordova Bay Beach and PKOLS (pronounced p’kawls) park. Cordova Bay gives views across the water to the San Juan Island in Washington. PKOLS, formerly called Mount Douglas Park, is the original Indigenous W̱SÁNEĆ Nation name for the mountain. The summit gives visitors incredible views over the land and water nearby.
For those interested in a little more time in Vancouver Island’s natural areas, take a detour over to Goldstream Falls Campground and take a short hike to Upper Goldstream Falls.
Downtown Victoria requires its own guide: stay tuned!
South Vancouver Island: Sooke to Port Renfrew (70 minutes)
The drive to Port Renfrew is scenic, taking you along the coast of South Vancouver Island to the end of the road—literally. Port Renfrew is the farthest you can drive along the southwest coast of the island. Port Renfrew also marks the beginning of the West Coast Trail and the end of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail.
If you’re not interested in a multi-day hike, however, don’t count this drive out. There are plenty of beautiful beaches, unique accommodations, and interesting spots along the way.
If you’re coming to Sooke from Victoria, you’ll need to drive 45 minutes through Langford and west along Highway 14 (Sooke Road). In Sooke, I recommend you take a walk along Sooke’s Spit (also called Whiffin Spit). Here, I’ve seen seals playing in the water and watching visitors. You may also want to visit Sooke Potholes Provincial Park, which is about 10 minutes north up Sooke River Road.
If you’re looking for a place to stay near Sooke, I’d recommend checking out Gordon’s Beach Farm Stay, a B and B near Gordon’s Beach just west of Sooke. It’s just 20 minutes from Jordan River or an hour from Port Renfrew.
The Juan de Fuca Provincial Park area between Jordan River and Port Renfrew is a must see, even if you don’t want to hike the whole trail. There is an easy trail leading to the magical Mystic Beach on the east end of the park, or you can keep driving to Sombrio Beach or Botanical Beach to the west. Trust me, it’s worth the drive! On the way back, stop by the Cold Shoulder Cafe in Jordan River for pick-me-up.
Malahat to Ladysmith (50 minutes)
If you’re driving up the coast from Victoria to Nanaimo (or beyond), you’ll drive through Goldstream Provincial Park, a beautiful area just north of Langford. As pictured below, the park is full of 600 year old Douglas fir trees, as well as arbutus and Garry oaks. The park is known for is salmon spawning during October and November, and is a protected area not only for these fish, but for other local flora and fauna as well.
If you continue driving north on the Trans-Canada, you’ll pass through Malahat and its Skywalk, which rises 20 metres in the air to give visitors a view of the Saanich Inlet, Finlayson Arm, and the surrounding landscape. The facility is stroller and wheelchair-friendly, and offers complimentary wheelchairs and mobility scooters for rent for visitors who require a mobility aid.
If you want to soak up the views at the top of the Malahat drive, but don’t want to spend the time or money at the Skywalk, you can also stop at the Split Rock Lookout, which offers a small rest stop and informational signs for visitors.
Continuing north, pass Mill Bay and Cobble Hill. Take the exit for Cowichan Bay Road and explore the charming town of Cowichan Bay. If you’re hungry, stop for a delicious snack at the local bakery, True Grain, where they mill their own flour (cash or debit only!), or get lunch with a view of the marina at Cow Bay Pub.
To complete the stretch up to Ladysmith, consider stopping in the Saltair community to stretch your legs at Stocking Creek Falls and refuel at Thanks a Latte cafe. Take the exit for Henry Road off the Trans Canada, then head north on Highway 1A (Chemainus Road).
Nanaimo to Coombs (35 minutes)
The final stretch of my Vancouver Island guide relates to the area I spent much of my childhood visiting. My grandmother lived in Qualicum Beach, so we usually flew into Nanaimo or Comox or took the ferry from Horseshoe Bay to Nanaimo when visiting. It wasn’t until 2017 that I visited Sidney and Victoria for the first time, and began visiting regularly when my aunt and uncle moved to the Victoria area.
Small beach towns are the norm up here, and while Nanaimo has a population over 100,000 residents now, there is still a slower pace of life here. We always enjoyed exploring the beaches between Nanaimo and Qualicum, along with some other local gems.
Exploring the Nanaimo to Parksville
If you’re driving from Nanaimo to Coombs, you’ll can start your adventure by visiting Petroglyph Provincial Park in the south end of the city. This park is small, with a high concentration of prehistoric rock carvings and informational signage to teach the history of the First Nations peoples who created them.
After visiting the park, drive north to Departure Bay Beach. Take a walk along the shore or swim in warmer weather. As you continue driving north, there will be lots of other beaches to stop at as well, near Lantzville and Nanoose Bay. I recommend taking a detour into Englishman River Regional Park before going into Parksville. Here, you can hike the easy trail to Englishman River Falls.
When I was young, my family often stayed at the Tigh-Na-Mara cabins while visiting my grandmother. I remember the Grotto Spa had some special activities for kids, Milkshakes and Manicures I believe, which was fun and exciting because most spas don’t allow children at all. Kids may also enjoy the nearby Riptide Lagoon Adventure Golf amusement park on the east side of Parksville.
In Parksville, there are plenty of public beaches, such as the Parksville Boardwalk and French Creek Beach. You can also visit nearby parks like the Parksville-Qualicum Beach Wildlife Area and the Rathtrevor Beach. No matter which beach you visit, remember to pack out what you bring in and don’t let any garbage get blown away or taken out with the tide.
Visiting Goats on the Roof, Coombs
I don’t have any credibility to say that Coombs is world-famous, but the Goats on the Roof are a common bumper sticker even in Alberta. Coombs is a tiny community with less than 2000 people, but manages to be a popular tourist destination thanks to its bustling market area.
This shopping district has a market full of food and souvenirs, a gallery, some boutiques, a bookstore, a collection of restaurants, and two ice cream shops. It’s known for having goats on the grass roof of the market, but you’ll only see them there during the summer months.
My Map of Places to Visit on South Vancouver Island
Save this map to your Google account to use it for itinerary planning.