While I was living as a student in Madrid, I took many short weekend trips to try and fit as much travel as possible in between my classes. That often resulted in whirlwind trips which packed as much of each destination as possible into 2 or 3 days. The same can be said about my trip to Belgium.
I travelled to Belgium for 2 and a half days during the last weekend of November in 2019. This was prime Christmas Market season, perfect for a country known for its chocolate. While in Belgium, I visited Antwerp, Bruges, and Brussels. Though I can’t say I spent long enough in each city and would love to return, I think I made the most of my short weekend trip here.
My experiences are supplemented with one of my friend’s detailed itinerary notes from her trip to Brussels and Bruges, and the many suggestions from my Belgian friend and her family, to round out the recommendations and give you more places to see while on a longer trip through Belgium.
Antwerp: What to See and Do
My first stop was Antwerp, a city just north Brussels. I departed Madrid early on the Friday morning for my flight to the Belgian capital. After a quick waffle at the airport (both delicious and convenient), I boarded a train for Antwerp directly from the airport train station, which took about 30 minutes. I arrived in Antwerp around 10:30 am, and the ticket cost around 12 euros.
The first thing I did after arriving was admire the Antwerpen-Centraal train station. The station has a gorgeous stained glass area surrounding the central clock tower.
Central Antwerp
From the train station, I made my way towards the historic centre, mainly by wandering through the streets. Around noon, I found a cafe near the Cathedral of Our Lady called Lizzie’s that had a rooftop terrace. The cafe was quiet, and I even got to meet Lizzie herself. Unfortunately, I was not able to find Lizzie’s while writing, so it may not be open any longer. Fortunately, the lunch I had is widely available elsewhere: a croque monsieur (sans ham) served with Belgian mayonnaise, which has to be the best in the world.
Following lunch, I stopped at the Grote Markt, or central plaza near the cathedral. This square is home to the Brabo Fountain and the famous Guild Houses. After passing through the markt (where a Christmas market was not yet open for the day), I took a walk along the Scheldt River towards the MAS. Before reaching the museum, I passed by the Het Steen, a historic medieval fortress. After taking a few photos of the fortress, I continued to the Museum aan de Stroom (MAS).
Museum aan de Stroom
The MAS is a ten-storey building along the Scheldt that houses a museum, cafe, gourmet restaurant, and panoramic rooftop. You can visit the photo exhibition on the second floor and the panorama for free, but ticket prices are reasonable as well, ranging from 6-12 euros per person.
After the museum, I checked in to my Airbnb and rested before dinner. I was tired from my early flight and needed to regain my energy before exploring another part of the city. I stayed in the Berchem area, just southeast of the historic centre. My hosts were a very kind Belgian family who made me an excellent breakfast the next morning.
I decided to go for sushi at Zaowing Zuid on Scheldestraat in the evening. It was a little expensive on a student budget, but very good. Following dinner, I stopped for dessert at a chocolate shop and tried Hoegaarden beer at a nearby pub playing live music. Although I am not a big fan of beer, I thought the Hoegaarden was nice.
Local Recommendations in Antwerp
Beyond my itinerary, there is lots to see and do in Antwerp. The city is known for its Fashion District, around Nationalestraat, Kammenstraat, and Lombardenvest, which has many independent shops, concept stores, and high-end boutiques to visit. They are also well-known for their jewellery and diamond shops, so if you have the means check them out.
Additionally, my friend mentioned that Antwerp is home to Belgium’s one and only Chinatown, on Van Wesenbekestraat. This street supported the Chinese community that settled in Antwerp after World War II, and today is known for its pan-Asian atmosphere.
Those interested in history, old books, or architecture may enjoy a trip to the Heritage Library Hendrik Conscience, a historic library of Dutch literature, Flemish cultural heritage, and the history of the city. Most notable is the Nottebohm Room, which has limited availability for individual visitors, but offers group tours.
Finally, you may find a couple spots perfect for wandering. Meir is a lively pedestrian street between the central train station and the cathedral. You may also find the St-Annatunnel interesting. It passes below the Scheldt and houses Europe’s only functioning wooden escalator.
Bruges: What to See and Where to Eat
On day two, I departed Antwerp and took a train to Bruges. My train departed at 11:00 am and took about an hour and a half, travelling through Ghent and on to Bruges. I watched the landscape slide by and noticed how very flat the area is. There are many farms between the cities here.
Bruges is known for its medieval history, charm, and culture, and the city centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The quaint streets and bridges over the canals immediately drew me to the city.
The first stop after arriving in Bruges was for lunch. I made a promise to myself to have a waffle every day in Belgium, so that’s what I chose. I also found a side of fries (which originate from Belgium, not France!) with more Belgian mayonnaise. Later, I made time to stop by some local chocolate shops for that famous Belgian chocolate!
Belgian Waffles
There is no shortage of waffle shops in Bruges. There are both sit down and takeaway options throughout the city centre, just take your pick!
What is important to note about waffles is that there are two distinct styles to choose from. There is the luikse/liège waffle which is denser and syrupy sweet, made with a dough and caramelized sugar on the outside. Luikse waffles are usually eaten without toppings. Then, there are brusselse/Brussels-style waffles. These waffles are lighter and airy, made with a liquid batter and are more familiar to North Americans. Brussels waffles are usually eaten with a variety of toppings.
Personally, I prefer the luikse waffles!
Exploring Bruges
After my waffle lunch, I gave myself a walking tour of Bruges. I passed the Sashuis and Minnewater. This area is very picturesque, with stone houses built along the canals and swans swimming through them. It’s a great stop for a walk or for some pictures.
I continued to wandered further north until I found a Christmas market in Simon Stevinplein. This square hosts a Christmas market from late November until just after New Year’s. The square itself is surrounded by many shops and restaurants, making it a lively spot all year round.
After trying some glühwein and sampling some cheeses at the market, I continued my exploration of the city. I stopped at the Grote Markt (the heart of Bruges), and took in the Belfry. This staggering bell tower is 83 metres high, and can be climbed to get a panoramic view of the city. Tickets to the Belfry are 15 euros per person.
The Grote Markt also houses a large Christmas market, and was full of vendors and visitors. It was in this square that I met up with some other friends that were visiting Belgium at the same time. We went to La Trappiste, an underground bar on Kuipersstraat which offered beer-tasting flights.
Local Recommendations in Bruges
If you have more time in Bruges (which I absolutely recommend), you can also check out some other historical and cultural sites. The Gruuthusemuseum is home to 500 years of Bruges’s history through historic art, manuscripts, and other objects. Admission to the museum is 15 euros, which discounts for young adults and children.
You should also check out the Site Oud Sint-Jan, a medieval trading centre that now houses an event centre. There are also frequent exhibitions here that are open to the public, so check the website to see what’s avilable during your trip. Stop by De Witte Pelikaan on Vlamingstraat, a year-round Christmas shop that offers eccentric decorations for Christmas and other seasons.
Bruges is also home to a number of ornate churches including the Basilica of the Holy Blood and the Church of Our Lady. Visit them for the stunning architecture and detailed altarpieces.
You can also take a boat ride through the canals, which was recommended a couple times by my friend and her family.
For food or drinks, take a tour at the Halve Mann brewery, which has 5 centuries of brewing history at their current location. Tours start at 16 euros per person. There are also many restaurants and bars to choose from, but Blend Wijnbar, Hermanus motocafe, and The Crash, a pop rock bar, come highly recommended. For more, see my map at the end of the blog.
Brussels: Where to Go and What to See
I travelled to Brussels on Saturday evening, after leaving La Trappiste in Bruges. The trip took about an hour by train to the Brussel-Centraal station.
Brussels is the capital city of Belgium, and there were a few noticeable differences in the culture here versus Antwerp or Bruges. The other two cities are in Flanders, the Flemish Region of Belgium where they speak Flemish (a distinct dialect of Dutch). The southern region of Belgium, called Wallonia, is primarily made up of French-speakers, with a German-speaking community to the east. The city of Brussels is inside of the Brussels-Capital region, which is separate from the French and Flemish communities.
In Brussels, I noticed far more French signage, speakers, and prevalence. There was also significant “big city” energy that wasn’t present in Antwerp or Bruges. Although I spent the least amount of time in Brussels, I still managed to see lots of the highlights.
Exploring Brussels
I wandered around Brussels on Sunday before my late afternoon flight back to Madrid.
Starting at the Grand-Place, or main square. In Grand-Place, you can see the Brussels City Museum, or the Maison du Roi, the iconic City Hall of Brussels, and many other famous, intricate buildings. I visited -Grand-Place first late the night of my arrival, and again during the following day.
Follow Rue de l’Étuve southwest for a couple streets to find Manneken Pis, the famous statue of the little boy peeing. There are actually three peeing fountains in Brussels, a boy, a girl, and a dog, that form a circle around Grand-Place. The boy’s statue is the most famous and is regularly dressed up in different costumes, which can be viewed at the GardeRobe MannekenPis.
After Grand-Place, I walked towards the palace. On the way, I passed the Jardin du Mont des Arts, which is a well-manicured garden that is very beautiful in the spring and summer. It stands before a statue of King Albert I, who ruled Belgium during the First World War, and surrounded by museums and historical buildings. At the end opposite the statue, there’s a set of stairs that leads you towards the palace.
In front of the Palais Royal de Bruxelles is the Parc du Bruxelles, which includes a couple restaurants, bars, and theatres (both indoor and outdoor). Between Mont des Arts and the palace, you’ll pass the Museum of Musical Instruments, which occupies the Old England store and is a stunning example of Art Nouveau architecture in Brussels.
While I had to head to the airport after reaching the palace, there is lots more to see and do in Brussels.
Local Recommendations in Brussels
Beyond Grand-Place and some of the surrounding museums, there are a number of beautiful and interesting locations to discover. The Royal Galleries of Saint Hubert, one of the oldest covered galleries in Europe, offers a variety of shops, restaurants, cafes, and auditoriums to experience Belgian life and culture. Nearby, check out the Rue des Bouchers for somewhere to eat or grab a drink.
If you’re a fan of Gothic architecture, or just enjoy visiting beautiful cathedrals, add St. Michael and St Gudula Cathedral to your list. This is Belgium’s national church, and offers free entry to visitors outside of service hours.
For more spots to visit in Brussels, check out my map, linked below.
My Map of Belgium
Save my map of Antwerp, Bruges, and Brussels to your Google Account for easy itinerary building and trip planning.