In late August of 2019, as the last stop before my final destination, Madrid, my family and I stayed in Sevilla for 3 short days on our way from Malága to Madrid. We knew thant Sevilla is known for having the hottest weather in the country, but we were still unprepared for the weather we found there. I believe it was well above 40ºC each day.
Staying in Sevilla during the summer did open up our eyes to certain cultural traditions however, such as siesta and late evening meals. The heat definitely necessitates more rest and deters you from eating large meals. This makes eating in the evening, once it starts to cool down, a lot more appealing.
Train to Sevilla
We left Malága early on August 23 and took our 2 hour train ride to Sevilla (or Seville, in English). We took a cab into the city centre where we were staying. Our taxi had to stop a little ways from the hotel as it couldn’t travel down the street the hotel was on. We stayed at the Hotel Doña María Sevilla on Calle Don Remondo, only steps from the Catedral de Sevilla. This was a pretty touristy area, so there are many bars and restaurants to choose from, especially along Calle Mateos Gago.
We settled into the hotel and got some lunch before exploring. If you stay in Central Sevilla, you will be within walking distance of the cathedral, the Real Alcázar, the Torre de Oro and even the Plaza de España. These are some of the most well-known sites in Sevilla, although there are plenty of other beautiful sites to explore.
La Giralda Tower
One of the most iconic landmarks of Sevilla, la Giralda, is the bell tower for the Catedral de Sevilla. This bell tower was initially constructed during the Almohad period as part of a mosque and follows an Islamic style of architecture. When Catholic King Ferdinand III of Castilla y León conquered Sevilla, the mosque was converted to a Christian temple. Through various reconstructions and restoration due to changing religions and damage from an earthquake, the bell tower shows a mix of Christian and Muslim styles.
Both the Catedral de Sevilla and la Giralda are recognized UNESCO heritage sites. We toured the cathedral and even attended a mass on Sunday morning there (as access to the chapel is restricted). Unfortunately, while I was in Sevilla, the tower was under restoration again and was covered in construction netting.
The Real Alcázar de Sevilla
Adjacent to the cathedral stands the Puerta de León, the red gates that mark the entrance to another UNESCO site, the Real Alcázar de Sevilla. This group of palaces was established in the 14th century, and had been expanded upon through the centuries. In true Spanish style, there are a great mix of styles, cultures and centuries evident here, predominantly Mudejar and Renaissance periods.
Students can between 17 and 26 can receive discounted admission to the palace. We toured the palace on our first day in Sevilla, and I think it may have been my favourite site in the city. The intricate carved stone arches and tiled walls and ceilings were breathtaking. It was also a great break from the sun, as we wandered through the old stone buildings. Despite the age of the palaces, there are still well-kept gardens throughout the grounds. The vegetation brings a pop of life into these historic sites.
I can truly not recommend the Real Alcázar de Sevilla more, it is definitely worth the price of admission! Guided tours are also available, but we had a great time just taking in the palace on our own.
Flamenco in Andalucía
Flamenco, today recognized as a cultural symbol of Spain, can trace its origins to the Andalusian region of Spain (Southern Spain). Flamenco is attributed to the Andalusian Roma people, which was later adopted by other Spaniards. Sevilla is closely related to the history of flamenco, as it was the first city to found a café cantante, where flamenco was performed formally indoors in 1842. Others sprang up in other cities in Andalusia such as Granada and Córdoba.
While originally a cultural practice tied to the Southern regions of Spain, a unique combination of music and dance specific to the cultural make-up of the region, under Franco flamenco became something else. The Franco regime rebranded flamenco as a national symbol in order to bolster tourism and foreign interest in the country following the Spanish Civil War.
Though much of this history I learned at university in Madrid, I was aware of the relationship between Sevilla and flamenco. Therefore, it seemed like a fitting place to see our first flamenco performance. We attended a flamenco show in the evening of our first day, at Tablao Flamenco El Patio Sevillano, at the recommendation of our hotel conceirge. The theatre sits along the Canal de Alfonso XIII, and on our walk back to the hotel after the show we passed the Torre de Oro, a watchtower from the 13th century.
On our second day we travelled a little further from the centre of the city and saw the famous Plaza de España.