St. John’s, the capital city of Newfoundland and Labrador is the easternmost city in North America. Perched on the east coast of the Avalon Peninsula, the city overlooks a vast expanse of ocean beyond its harbour and the Narrows.
St. John’s boasts 500 years of history, but its roots go deeper than that. The island is filled with information about the unique geological formations that built it, the flora and fauna (both native and introduced, living and extinct) that make up the landscape, and the Beothuk who once lived along the coast all around Newfoundland. St. John’s began its history as a city as a British settlement and fishing post in Newfoundland.
Despite being the largest Atlantic Province, Newfoundland and Labrador has the second smallest population, with only 548,000 people. 95% of the population lives on the island of Newfoundland, with 110,500 people living in St. John’s itself. Although their capital city accounts for about a 5th of their population, the city maintains some small town charm. It’s relaxed atmosphere and welcoming residents are sure to make your visit a pleasant one.
We flew into St. John’s at the beginning of our week-long Newfoundland road trip and spent 2.5 days in the area before travelling west. Our stay included exploring downtown, visiting Cape Spear, Signal Hill, an ecological reserve in Witless Bay, and the village of Quidi Vidi.
How to Get Around in St. John’s
The simplest way to get around St. John’s particularly if you’re looking for freedom, flexibility, and the opportunity to explore beyond the downtown area, is to rent a car. I’d recommend reserving your car in advance, as the island has a limited number of vehicles that can get booked up during the busy summer season.
If you’re reluctant to rent a car, or you’re primarily staying in the St. John’s area, another great option is the Hop On Hop Off bus. It runs from June 1 to October 1 and costs $60 for adults or $35 for children. The tickets are valid for 2 days. The bus stops at Signal Hill, the Johnson Geo Centre, Quidi Vidi, The Rooms, and even Cape Spear, the easternmost point of Canada.
If you are interested in doing a boat tour to the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve, where the second largest colony of Atlantic puffins resides, you can get a shuttle from St. John’s as well, alleviating the pressure to rent a car while staying in St. John’s.
The city itself is walkable, though it is situated on steep hills that sometimes require stairs along the sidewalks. Therefore, it may not be accessible to get around easily for those with mobility issues.
Where to Stay in St. John’s
St. John’s is full of nice hotels, traditional bed and breakfasts, and Airbnbs. The province has a great catalogue of accommodations available on their website to make your search easy.
I recommend booking your accommodations a few months in advance, especially for regions outside of St. John’s where there are more limited options.
What to Do in St. John’s
St. John’s is a pleasant city to walk through and explore, from the beautiful, colourful homes that make up Jellybean Row (check Gower Street in particular!), the busy Duckworth Street full of shops and restaurants, to Water Street and Harbour Drive, which take you along the harbour. I recommend saving some time to wander, you’re sure to find interesting architecture, churches, and murals throughout.
Beyond wandering the city, St. John’s is home to the fantastic museum, The Rooms, which is full of information about Newfoundland and Labrador’s history, the Terry Fox Memorial, and the Signal Hill National Historic Site.
The Rooms
The Rooms is a large museum sitting on the hill overlooking downtown St. John’s, next to the Basilica Cathedral of St. John the Baptist. The museum is built over the old site of Fort Townshend, the ruins of which are preserved below the building. It is 4 stories tall, with different rooms for various collections and focuses. Admission is $13.80 for adults, with discounted tickets for seniors, students, and children.
We decided to organize our visit starting at the top floor and working our way back down to the lobby. The 4th floor hosts some exhibits surrounding the history of human inhabitants in Newfoundland and Labrador, from the various cultures that lived here before and exist in the province today, to tales and artifacts related to various phases of the provinces history. The cafe and an art gallery are also located on this floor.
On the 3rd floor are exhibits surrounding natural history, such as the animals and plants native to the area, as well as the early peoples who made Newfoundland and Labrador home. They also had features about the impact of climate change and melting sea ice on the Labrador communities that rely on ice roads for transportation.
On the 2nd floor is the theatre, some exhibits about the modernization of Newfoundland and Labrador in the 1950s and 60s after joining Canada in 1949. They also had a feature exhibit while we were here that focused on the history and sacrifice of Newfoundlanders who served in the First World War. The 1st floor houses reception and their gift shop.
Terry Fox Memorial
Terry Fox is a Canadian hero and legend. Each year, schools and community organizations across the country hold their own “Terry Fox Run” to raise money for cancer research. His legacy has continued for more than 45 years since his Marathon of Hope.
For those unfamiliar with Terry’s story, he was diagnosed at the age of 18 with osteogenic sarcoma and had his leg amputated above the knee. After his treatment, he decided to raise money for cancer research and began planning and training for his run across Canada. The Marathon of Hope began on April 12, 1980, when Terry dipped his prosthetic foot into the Atlantic Ocean in St. John’s and started his journey on foot across Canada.
He ran for 5,373 km and reached Thunder Bay, Ontario, by September 1, when he was forced to stop running. His cancer had returned, this time in his lungs. Although Terry could not finish his run, Canadians took up his ambition and continued his legacy. To date, the Terry Fox Foundation has raised over $1 billion for cancer research in Terry’s name.
You can visit the Terry Fox Memorial in St. John’s, which features a statue that commemorates the moment that Terry dipped his foot in the ocean and began his run.
Signal Hill National Historic Site
Signal Hill overlooks St. John’s, the harbour, and the Narrows. Atop Signal Hill stands Cabot Tower, which was built in 1898-1900 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of John Cabot’s arrival in Newfoundland. The tower was also the site of the first transatlantic radio transmission, received from Cornwall, UK in 1901. Today, the tower houses a gift shop, and you can climb to the top to get the view for free.
Beyond the tower, Signal Hill is also filled with various hiking trails, a visitor’s centre and museums, and a cafe. The hiking trails and view from Cabot Tower are accessible for free, while the exhibits is $10 for adults, with discounted admission for students and seniors, and free admission for kids 17 and under.
We climbed the tower, hiked Ladies’ Lookout trail, and Gibbet Trail. These two short trails give great views over different sides of Signal Hill, the first over the Atlantic and the second over the harbour.
Shops, Cafes, and Restaurants in St. John’s
While in St. John’s there are plenty of great local businesses to check out. We got breakfast one morning at Terre Cafe in the Alt Hotel, and at Maya Bakery + Coffee another day. Both had great pastries and baked goods, as well as coffees and tea lattes.
For dinners, we ate at Bannerman Brewing Co. and Haveli Restaurant, which were both great. If you’re looking for a more classic St. John’s pub vibe, check out George Street, known for its bars and live music. We also visited the Quidi Vidi Brewery in the village of Quidi Vidi, but we were a little underwhelmed by the food. Their beers are widely available throughout Newfoundland, so if this is your primary interest in visiting Quidi Vidi, I’d recommend just trying their brews at other restaurants.
I’d recommend checking out Heritage Shop, Crafted Treasures, and The Tickle Trunk if you’re looking for souvenirs. These shops offer both classic souvenirs and handmade items from local artisans and small businesses. Elaine’s Books is another interesting shop, filled with used books across all genres (and right next to Maya Bakery).
Puffin and Whale Watching Tours
One thing most Newfoundland visitors hope to see are the puffins. The Atlantic puffin is the province’s provincial bird, and the world’s second largest colony is located only about 30 minutes from St. John’s.
Witless Bay Ecological Reserve is located just off the coast of Newfoundland, where 3 uninhabited islands provide a sanctuary to a variety of seabirds, including puffins, common murres, and black-legged kittiwakes. Visitors to the area must take a boat tour from one of the 4 permitted companies, and people are not permitted to set foot on the islands (with the exception of scientific researchers with permits).
We took a tour with O’Brien’s Whale and Boat Tours, which departed from Bay Bulls. The tour was fantastic, with an informative, entertaining tour guide, thousands of seabirds spotted, including puffins, murres, kittiwakes, and a juvenile bald eagle. We also got to see a couple of humpback whales in the bay, which spent a good amount of time swimming alongside our boat.
Depending on the time of year you go, you may also get to see icebergs floating along on your tour.
Petty Harbour
Petty Harbour-Maddox Cove is a small community of about 950 people located between Witless Bay and St. John’s. We stopped here for lunch after our boat tour with O’Brien’s.
We stopped at the Petty Harbour Public House, which served some of the best fish and chips we ate on the trip (and we tried lots!), and a lobster roll. While I am strictly vegetarian at home, I sometimes eat fish while travelling, particularly when veggie options are hard to come by. The Petty Harbour Public House had only 2 starter options for vegetarian food (which we couldn’t order due to other allergies).
The town is very cute, with colourful homes along the coastline and up the hills surrounding the harbour. There are 2 restaurants in town and a small aquarium, which is located across the harbour from the main road.
After lunch, we continue north on the highway towards Cape Spear.
The Easternmost Point of Canada: Cape Spear
The Cape Spear Lighthouse is a National Historic Site located on the easternmost point of Canada. The lighthouse stand over rocky cliffs where rough waves crash below. The area has nicely maintained paths and boardwalks that take you around the cliffs to view the ocean, the coastline, and lead to the lighthouse itself.
There are exhibits inside the lighthouse that discuss life in the 1830s and a lighthouse keeper, which require admission. Access to the grounds is free. Later on, Cape Spear was used at a coastal defence battery during the Second World War, where military personnel kept watch for enemy threats.
Today, Cape Spear is a popular area to watch for whales and icebergs, depending on the time of year. The winds were strong here, making it feel cool despite the sunny weather, so make sure to bring a windbreaker or jacket when visiting. Certain paths and trails are accessible for individuals with mobility aids, check the online brochure and check in with the visitor’s information centre beside the parking lot for assistance.
Quidi Vidi: A Village-within-a-City,
Quidi Vidi is a charming coastal community on the opposite side of Signal Hill from downtown St. John’s. It sits along the shores of Quidi Vidi Lake and Quidi Vidi Harbour. They are known for their artisans’ market and local brewery.
The artisans’ market is open from 10 am to 4 pm each day. Here you can find local, handmade good such as pottery, textiles, and leatherworking.
We unfortunately did not make it to Quidi Vidi in time to visit the artisans’ market, but instead spent sometime exploring the beginning of the Sugarloaf Path. This 8.8 km point-to-point path is part of the East Coast Trail, but we just walked the first kilometre or so, reaching a lovely viewpoint of the harbour beyond the edge of the village.
The trail is clearly signed and well marked, although intersecting paths can sometimes make the direction unclear. Keep an eye out for striped trail markers and beautiful wooden signs to keep you on the right trail.
We ended our visit at the Quidi Vidi brewery, which had nice food and many local brews to choose from. However, we found the food to be quite pricey for the quality, so I wouldn’t necessary commit to eating here. There are also some food trucks in The Wharf that you can check out next to the brewery.
All in all, we spent a whirlwind 2.5 days in St. John’s and the surrounding area, but you could certainly spend longer here, or take more time to explore the Avalon peninsula and drive the Irish Loop. Following our itinerary should give you a pretty good sampling of what St. John’s has to offer!